On the Trail of Dostoevsky
During the 19th century, Russia produced many world-class authors,
writers who created dramas and characters which seem as lively
today as when they were penned. None more so than Fyodor
Dostoevsky, the author of 'Crime and Punishment' one of the most
gripping accounts of the inner turmoil of the human mind.
Dostoevsky himself lived a life of extremes, an inveterate gambler
and former political prisoner, his greatest works were written in
and around St Petersburg.
The underworld of St Petersburg made famous by Dostoevsky was by
and large based on real locations around the city and with a good
map and a bit of imagination you can easily enter into shady world
of Raskolnikov. The place to start is west of the Nevsky Prospect
near the Sadovaya Metro station. The area bordered by the
Griboedova canal and the river Moika is still a largely residential
area with tall, old apartment blocks standing watch over the canal
embankments just as they have for two hundred years. No one who has
enjoyed 'Crime and Punishment' could fail to be excited when they
compare their own imaginary Sennaya Square with the real one.
Crossing into Solyarny Lane, the house of Raskolnikov is marked
with a statue of Dostoevsky and if you slip between the gates of
the apartment block, you enter into the sombre series of
interconnecting courtyards. Here behind the façade of the street
nothing has changed, the sunlight struggles to reach the dirty
cobbles and half-open entrance door reveals a narrow time-worn
stone staircase winding up the 5 or so floors to the garret.
Returning to the street, a good way to end the day is to head
north, crossing the maze of canals and little waterways and wind
your way to the Moika Embankment. Here, just after the Pochtamtski
Bridge is number 82, which is home to the Dostoevsky, inspired
restaurant, 'The Idiot'. Inside you'll find a warren of rooms
decorated in eclectic style, packed with Russian and English books
to flick through and bric a brac which make it fascinating to visit
just for a coffee although the menu is always good value and well
prepared. Take your pick from a wide choice of delicious mushroom
dishes which are the Idiot's speciality.
David Turner
Sept 10, 2008
09.10.2008
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